The gold standard for making men's shoes?

Technology is revolutionizing everything from how we shop for shoes, to the weight of our sneakers and even if we have to lace them ourselves. But most experts agree the best way to make men's shoes is a method invented 150 years ago.

It's known as the Goodyear Welt and while it is more expensive, the shoes can last forever.

The method is used by high-end brands, including Mezlan and Allen Edmonds.

Here are the ways a men's dress shoe can be made.

Cementing:

This is the cheapest and fastest way of attaching the sole to the rest of the shoe, according to Primer Magazine. Its attached with an adhesive and no stitching. While cheap, it does not last as long as other methods. A downside is that often the sole cannot be repaired and the shoe will need to be replaced.

The Blake Welt:
The Blake Welt uses stitching instead of adhesive to attach the sole. The stitching is located on the inside of the shoe and must be done by machine, according to Primer Magazine.

The advantages of the Blake Welt are that it is more secure than cementing and since the stitching is small, the sole can be cut close to the top. The sole is also usually repairable. While more expensive than cementing, it is less expensive than the Goodyear Welt.

The Goodyear Welt:

The Goodyear Welt is the oldest method, invented in 1869, according to Mezlan.

It uses an extra piece of leather that its attached between the upper and the sole. It has special stitching that runs along the outside of the sole, giving these shoes a distinctive look.

While the Goodyear Welt is the most expensive method, it lasts the longest and is easiest to repair, according to Mezlan. It is also more water resistant, according to Primer Magazine.

To perform the Goodyear Welt requires skills. Mezlan makes their shoes using artisan shoemakers at a factory in Almansa, Spain. They are still hand sewn.




Be careful, the stitching doesn't tell the whole story. According to Mezlan, some shoe makers add the stitching to make you think the shoe is made with a Goodyear Welt.

To Repair or Not to Repair: The Growing Trend to Repair Shoes

After finally finding the perfect black flats, stylish, classic, and comfy, I looked down one day to find one of the military-inspired straps had come loose. I was faced with a dilemma—should I repair it or search for a replacement?

I recently discussed how Mayor Bloomberg only owns two pairs of shoes. He is able to keep those two pairs of dress shoes for so long is through regular repairs.

However, his shoes were expensive to begin with, so the repairs seem worthy. For me, my shoes were Steve Madden flats bought at Century 21 (New York City’s amazing discounter) for $25. The estimate for the repair was up to $12.